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| Brandade de Morue (hot salt cod 'paté') at Le Balbuzard - yum! |
So far this trip has been absolutely jam packed. Day one, after arriving at 8:45 in the morning, we headed straight for a brasserie where I had brandade de morue (this is the perfect breakfast food after a trans-continental, trans-oceanic flight). Dean had cous cous and is still suffering order envy. The brandade as hot and salty and, of course, came with loads of bread and butter. For dinner we went somewhere else but I honestly can't remember where...such is the reality of jet lag. But I do remember the Salade Composée Italienne - ordinarie, but good!! Dean had Dorade - he did not have order-envy..
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| Salade Italienne, with hot chevre on toast, anchovies, tuna and salami - a light supper. |
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| Hilarious that they think putting a spot of sauce in the eye makes it look less shocking. |
We did not get out the camera last night at
Astier, although I was seldom more tempted. We found this restaurant in Fodor's and took their advice. The whole meal was excellent, but it was the cheese tray that stole the show. A 16" diameter platter carrying 18 different French cheeses was brought to the table, between the main course and desert. I would likely not have tried most of these under other circumstances, crusted with weird looking molds and oozing out of their skins as they were, but I took the leap and must now become a cheese snob. I also discovered, via a guinea fowl stuffed with a mixture made from the giblets, that liver (of tiny birds) is lovely, and white pepper has its place in the world after all! I also discovered yesterday that a good pork loin stuffed with a single chorizo is a fine lunch after a morning of Rodin. Although Dean's pave de lieu faune (fancy bistro term for Pollack) also looked like a good choice.
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| Not an optical illusion - the stairs really are like this. |
This trip has made me face one of my most persistent fears, daily. That being the fear of death by falling - down a staircase in particular. Our apartment is lovely, modern, clean, warm and bright. But the buidling itself is in real need of reepair. The staircase and landings are truly terrifying, and not just a small bit dangerous. The stair case appears to be falling inward, and the stairs themselves are worn by decades ( maybe centuries) of feet to such an extent that they tip both laterally and horizontally. The result is a staircase that could have been designed by Dali. Day by day I am becoming accustomed to leaving the apartment and stepping onto a tiled landing that slides away from the door is if to hurl you down the stairs. The worst parts of the stairs are on the inside, but the outside edges have no rails in places, and in others the rails are pulling out of the plaster. Oh well - maybe by the end of the visit I will have concurred my fear and leave here a new woman, sure on her feet.
And finally, a few pictures I took in the Rodin Museum. We were very lucky to be there on a sunny day, and you can get ridiculously close to these sumptuous sculptures.
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| The Kiss |
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| Eternal Icon |
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| Two great thinkers. |
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| Not Rodin. This is an Egyptian piece (circa 300-350 BC) Rodin owned. |